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HANDYMAN HINTS: Forming attachments that last forever

Aug 01, 2023

Some attachments, such as the ones held together by bolts and nuts, are designed to last forever, while other attachments, such as those held together with duck-tape, not so long.

When I was going to high school in the late 70’s, I used to think the Stanley Cup was secured into the shelf of the Montreal Canadiens trophy case with 8-inch nails. After all, the parade down Saint-Catherine Street seemed like a yearly ritual.

With that ideology having waned into oblivion over the years, with players not willing to attach themselves to the local press corps, and their spouses not so willing to attach themselves to the chore of investing in snow tires and moisturizing cream, it seems the nails that once secured the cup to the mantle have been replaced with painters tape.

So, how do we form permanent attachments in the do-it-yourself field of amateur construction? When we’re talking wood on wood, such as having to laminate a triple 2×10 beam, or attach your 2×6 deck framing to a 4×4 corner post, nothing makes things as permanent as a carriage bolt piercing the entire assembly with a washer, lock washer, and nut to finish things off.

Otherwise, galvanized nails are an excellent means of forming a wood to wood attachment, along with a little PL Premium subfloor glue of course. Unless you’re planning on disassembling your wood assembly, nothing helps maintain a permanent attachment like a bead of glue.

Why nails and not screws? Essentially, and for permanent attachments, a 3-1/2” nail is going to provide better holding power than a 3-1/2” screw. Not only is a nail of this girth extremely difficult to pull out, but its sheer strength is significantly stronger than a screw.

Basically, a regular decking screw will break, while a galvanized spiral nail will bend. So, in a situation where there’s likely to be a little movement, like your outside deck, nails are a good choice.

Why then, aren’t the use of nails more popular? It mostly has to do with the fact you’re still going to have a hard time finding a hammer with a power cord and plug-in attachment, or one where you can insert a battery into the end of the shaft like you would an electric toothbrush.

So, with hammering a nail still requiring old fashioned forearm strength, even the seasoned carpenters opt for the easier option of grabbing their cordless drill. This being so, be sure to select approved structural screws, and not regular decking screws, when having to depend on a structural attachment. Decking screws are for fastening down 5/4 inch decking planks or 1×6 fence boards, and that’s it.

Otherwise, look for terms such as LedgerLok, TimberLok, HeadLok, or basically any wording with the word ‘Lok’ on the end, signifying the box or container contains structural screws with sufficient grip and sheer strength to permanently form a wood to wood beam or framing attachment.

What are the fastening options to attaching a wood ledger or a steel newel post base, to concrete? Although there are concrete screws such as the ‘Tapcon’ variety, that require you to pre-drill a hole into the concrete, then insert the screw, Tapcons are like decking screws, and should be restricted to lighter duty usages.

For the purpose of structural integrity, which essentially means a failure will lead to possible collapse, death and despair, we use wedge anchors. The wedge anchor is basically a two in one version of the traditional lead shield and lag screw.

In the olden days, you’d drill a hole into the concrete, insert the lead shield, then insert the lag screw. The lag screw would pry the shield open, effectively jamming the assembly into place.

Although the lead shield and lag screw assembly is still an option, the wedge anchor system is better. Basically, you drill a hole into the concrete (using a concrete bit and hammer drill), and insert the wedge anchor. By tightening the anchor’s nut you engage the wedge action, and things get locked down into position.

Good luck with your attachments.

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